It is hard to overstate the influence of Rolex in the world of haute horology. Founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, the house has pioneered numerous technical breakthroughs over the years, from the first waterproof wristwatch (the Oyster) and the first automatic watch with a date window (the Datejust), to innovations in new materials. Compared to other heavyweights in the luxury watch market – Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, for instance – Rolex stands out for its breadth, catering to both entry-level buyers and seasoned collectors. It also has one of the most active secondary markets, with rare vintage pieces and precious metal editions routinely bringing record-breaking figures at auction.
Here, we spotlight four of the most significant Rolex models for men – each a cultural reference point in its own right.
Rolex Datejust – The Archetypical Dress Watch
For all the innovations and reinventions in the luxury watch market, Rolex’s Datejust is one that keeps closely to tradition. The ultimate dress watch, it debuted in 1945 as the first self-winding chronometer with an automatically changing date window – a technical breakthrough at the time. The Datejust also introduced the fluted bezel and five-link Jubilee bracelet, a ‘dressier’ alternative to the sporty Oyster band.
Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf famously presented personalised gold Datejusts to world leaders in the 1950s, commemorating the production of Rolex’s 100,000th certified chronometer. Winston Churchill described his as “a continual pleasure,” while Dwight Eisenhower called his a “proud possession,” cementing the Datejust as both a statesman’s watch and a symbol of post-war optimism.
Prices vary widely depending on model and metal, but the Datejust today is an elegant entry into the Rolex world, starting from around AED 20,000 at retail. The latest in the lineage is the Datejust 41. True to its origins, it carries the signature fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet, paired with the new calibre 3235 movement – a self-winding, COSC-certified chronometer offering a 70-hour power reserve.
Rolex has released a variety of design-forward configurations in recent years, including Everose gold editions, two-tone Rolesor cases with royal blue dials, and the ever-popular ‘Wimbledon’ edition with its slate dial and green Roman numerals.
While the Datejust isn’t typically seen as a grail among collectors, certain vintage models are proving increasingly valuable on the secondary market. References like the inaugural 4467, the Eisenhower-linked 6305, and rare mid-century variants with roulette date wheels or honeycomb dials can achieve five- and six-figure sums at auction.
The Day-Date (The President) – The Power Watch
Aptly nicknamed ‘The President’, the Day-Date builds on the legacy of the Datejust, adding a full day display alongside the date window. Introduced in 1956, it was the first wristwatch to spell out the day of the week in full – and it has only ever been produced in precious metals, including yellow gold, white gold, Everose, and platinum. Ronald Reagan, Richard Nixon, and Bill Clinton are just a few of the US presidents to wear one, and the model remains popular among Gulf royalty.
The Day-Date is offered in both 36mm and 40mm sizes, with dial options that range from sleek white lacquer to deep green or full pavé diamond. Some of the most sought-after models include the ice-blue platinum edition (Day-Date 40) and vintage enamel ‘Stella’ dial references, which were once considered niche but now fetch significant figures at auction. Day wheels are produced in several languages, including Arabic, Japanese, and Chinese, making the Day-Date one of the most culturally adaptable watches in the Rolex catalogue.
Retail prices for the Day-Date start around AED 159,000 and can climb past AED 545,400, depending on material and configuration.
Rolex Daytona – The Crown for Collectors
With its tachymeter bezel and three subdials, the Daytona is one of the most recognisable Rolex timepieces. Originally designed for the racetrack, it debuted in 1963 as the Cosmograph, adding ‘Daytona’ to its name several years later – a nod to the Florida speedway. Early references were manually wound and slow to sell, with many buyers deeming them too technical compared with the clean dial of the Day-Date or Submariner. That changed in 2017, when Paul Newman’s personal Daytona – an off-white dial with black subdials and art deco numerals – sold at auction for $17.8 million, marking the most expensive watch ever sold at auction at that time.
Today, the Daytona is one of the most in-demand Rolexes. Waitlists stretch years, and some trade on the secondary market for more than double the retail price. The latest 2025 references are powered by the in-house calibre 4130 and feature bolder, more expressive colours. The yellow gold reference 126508 has a sublime green dial that echoes the cult “John Mayer” configuration, while the 126518LN brings a sportier, more contemporary aesthetic, with a turquoise lacquer dial on a rubber Oysterflex band. All retain the core 40mm case and durable Cerachrom bezel.
Retail prices for the Daytona begin around AED 63,000 for Oystersteel models and climb to over AED 560,000 for diamond-set 18-carat Everose gold editions.
Rolex Submariner – The Dive Watch
Where the Daytona was built for the track, the Submariner was built for the sea. First launched in 1953, it was Rolex’s first dive watch and has since become the standard, worn by everyone from Royal Navy divers to James Bond. It’s water resistant up to 330 metres and has luminous hour markers designed for underwater legibility, framed by a unidirectional bezel. Although the Submariner was engineered for diving, it’s stylistically versatile and is well-worn beyond that today. James Cameron famously remarked he was wearing the “same Submariner” when he first saw the real Titanic as when he went up on the stage to get the Oscar for directing the movie Titanic.
The current generation features a 41mm case, available in Oystersteel, Rolesor, or full gold. The Submariner Date (ref. 126610LN) remains the most popular, while the no-date Submariner (ref. 124060) is still prized by purists for its symmetry and simplicity. Inside sits the calibre 3235 – a COSC-certified movement with a 70-hour power reserve.
At retail, prices for the 41mm Submariner in Oystersteel begin at AED 37,800, with the Submariner Date in white gold priced at around AED 190,600. Like the Daytona, the Submariner has a fiercely loyal collector base, and rare vintage references – such as early gilt dials or the “Red Sub” 1680 – can trade for multiples of their original price at auction.
Final Thoughts
As with any luxury investment, provenance matters – especially if you’re buying on the secondary market. Whether you’re seeking a rare vintage Rolex or your very first timepiece, working with a trusted name like Sotheby’s offers confidence, backed by deep expertise and global reach. To explore upcoming watch auctions near you, keep an eye on the Sotheby’s calendar.
